take us with you!
Summer may constitute different things for different people, but as those exuding warm winds touch onto my small side of the world, my mind starts to wander into the gastronomic adventure that this blissful season brings… Buttery glazed grilled lobster, plump sweet belly fried clams, creamy rich clam chowder, or a perfectly seared succulent scallops.
I want you to follow me into a picturesque part of America, somewhere that may have well indeed been part of a Norman Rockwell painting. Martha’s Vineyard is an island just off the south of Cape Cod in New England. Once a prominent whaling town in the 19th century, it is now the quintessential summer retreat to those seeking a “true American experience.” Intertwined with rich history, this small island also holds a sumptuous score of delicious island fare.
One spot that continues to be a staple in my visits is Giordano’s Clam Bar in Oaks Bluffs. The lobster roll hits certain pivotal points on my palette that remind me why I keep coming back. Accompany this with half a pint of fried whole clams and you have set yourself up for the perfect island menu.
But my lobster fixation doesn’t end there. My hunt for the perfectly steamed crustacean delicacy leads me to the other side of the island in Menemsha. Larsen’s Fish Market boasts some of the best lobster on the whole Vineyard and arguably the United States. This small shack sits right on the harbor and seating is very primitive: plywood for tables and wooden stumps for chairs. But any discomfort melts away as soon as you start dipping that lobster meat into that melted butter… A true Vineyard experience! Just a word to the wise, make sure you hit up The Bite on your way down to Larsen’s for some of best fried clams and oysters the island has to offer.
Typically my first night on the Vineyard is reserved for dinner at Water Street in the Harbor View Hotel & Resort. The menu is broken down into small and large plates and consists of a delectable variety of fresh organic produce, farm-raised meats, and day boat seafood. The Grass-fed Steak Tartar is both tantalizing and beautifully presented, topped with an egg yolk, crispy potato, and black truffle: enough to build-up your appetite for the main course. There are many items that catch my eye (or stomach) like the Ricotta Gnudi with Forrest Mushrooms and Dante cheese, or Katama Farm Chicken with the pan gravy. But my visit to Water Street would be in vain if I did not order the Day Boat Scallops. These delicious cylindrical treats literally melt in your mouth and paired with the cauliflower puree, chorizo and shallot confit round out the dish quite nicely.
Though much of the fare on Martha’s Vineyard may consist of excellent seafood, there are places to go catch a good steak and even enjoy the beautiful weather with outdoor dining. Atlantic Fish & Chop House serves up some great cuts along with quality seafood. All meats are USDA Prime and supplied by famed Allen Brothers from Chicago. Some highlights include the Large Bone Veal Chop (14 oz.), Bone in Rib Eye (20 oz.), and a Marinated Kurabuto Pork Chop Apple Brined (16 oz.) served with an exquisite homemade applesauce. Throw in a side of hash browns, truffle french fries or even some roasted artichokes, and for the cherry-on-top, pair it all with a 2007 Pinot Noir, Matua, New Zealand and sensory overload will be in full effect.
Blueberries are in full bloom during the summer season and you can’t really miss it. A significant amount of blueberries are produced in the Northeastern part of the United States, especially all low bush blueberries. These delicious sweet fruits are dark and rich in color and taste amazing alone or in a pie. Which brings me to a must have treat… Eileen Blake’s Blueberry Pies! A pie lover and crusader for the best pies, Eileen’s really takes the gold statue. A roadside destination, this place has strictly been made famous by word of mouth. Make sure you bring your own ice cream in the car cause this pie won’t make it home whole.
Finally, what would a summer be without a greasy spoon diner, especially after a night of knocking back locally brewed Ales. Art Cliff’s Beach Road Frittata can revive any human soul from its boozed aftershock… Three scrambled farm fresh eggs over layered Yukon Gold Potatoes and Toast with Bacon, Tomato, Cabot Cheddar. Their breakfast sandwich of monolithic proportions presses farm fresh eggs, arugula, swiss cheese, and spinach between two perfectly toasted slices of brioche and may quite possibly induce a food coma (in a good way). But what would Art Cliff be if it weren’t for those savory sweet potato muffins with their very own maple butter. If you’re one of the lucky ones to catch these before they sell out then consider yourself just shy of winning the lottery because the exquisite muffins have put this joint on the map!
Though I have skimmed through some crucial eateries on the Vineyard, I have only begun to brush the surface of the amazing food that this tiny island has to offer. Summer brings sunshine and good weather (for the most part, if it weren’t for the rain), so indulge. And if you find yourself on this side of the world remember, you can never go wrong with local and freshly caught!
Gabriel Berthin (twitter: @gabrielberthin)
